Back in the spring of 2009 the gardeners at Capparoe planted around 300 Bedford monarch parsnips and wanted to save the plants for seed production.

So the gardeners took away all those which didn’t look too great.

They took away the ones that were too skinny or too fat.

and the ones that were too divided.

and all the ones that had any scab on them.

What they had left was around 50 of the best looking parsnips.

The ones that were most true to type and healthiest looking.

So all you gardeners out there, you have the knowledge and the pictures why not save a few parsnips for yourselves this year. When you dig up the parsnips at harvest time and you come across a most impressive specimen save it in damp sand until the winter, you can use a minimum of 6 specimens for saving the seed from. You may like to plant them in the flower bed as the Umbelliferae family have the most impressive flowers before going to seed.

Pretty nice show!

and closer still

and then to seed.

and finally the finished product.

http://www.larryleptin.com/

The tree paste has proved a very effective way of maintaining healthy trees with a smooth bark, healing lesions, and protecting trees against pests, especially those which hibernate underneath the bark, or in the crevices e.g. sucking insects, scale, aphids, wholly aphids, etc. That is, provided that the job is done right. The principle is that the entire tree, trunk, branches, twigs, buds is thoroughly covered with the paste. This restores a healthy trunk and the many pests that hibernate and lay their eggs on the outer twigs and near the buds, for instance bud borer, aphids and scale are also counteracted by the past. It is especially important that not only the under side of the branch is covered, but the entire branch, including the dead corners where the branching off takes place, and that no bark remains to giver hiding places. Any lesion of the timber can be painted with the paste, which is a much better procedure than covering with tar, oil, asphalt or paint, as is usually done. Holes in the trunk should be cleaned out and filled with paste. If eggs, larvae and scale are covered with the paste, it will exclude the air from them and they will perish. Since this paste is entirely harmless, and in no way toxic, it is and ideal means of protecting the tree and avoiding poisonous sprays. We have even sprayed it on green foliage,when this was attacked by pests and fungi (rust for instance and mildew), so that the leaves were entirely ‘painted yellow’. The rain vashes it off eventually and leaves recover with a healthy green shine.

The original recipe for tree paste was:

1/3 Sticky clay

1/3 Cow manure

1/3 Fine sand

This mixture is approximate, for the sticky quality varies and the proportions have to be somewhat altered accordingly. As much water is added as is needed so that the past can be easily applied and still stick to the tree. Add equisetum preparation (horsetail tea), extract of nasturtium plants against aphids, or other ingredients that one wants to apply. For many years it was the biodynamic practise to apply the paste, in the solution form, with a whitewash brush, by hand, to the trunk and larger branches. Nowadays on finds few orchardists who want to paint a tree by hand and we admit it is rather a messy procedure, but hand applicatin may still be the easiest method for a few trees but for a large orchard spraying is really the only way to do it.

The paste can be used in Autumn when the leaves have fallen off, or in Spring as a pre-emergence spray (before the buds open, but after the main frost period is over).

“From a time when every small farmhouse and estate had fruit trees, Ireland has lost about two thirds of its orchards in the past 50 years” estimates Heidi Lammiman, Irish Seed Savers.  Apart from the loss of really good tasting food many of these plants have disease and pest resistant qualities that could be invaluable in future breeding programmes.  The fruit on some varieties such as Brown Crofton from Sligo stay longer on the tree than others, ideal for windier spots.  Come and see the work we do and get advice on planting and siting your orchard perhaps you know about some special plant or fruit tree that should be in our collection.

For farmers with a holding of 10ha or less this option qualifies as a Category 1 option while for farmers with a holding of greater than 10 ha this is a Category 2 option.

• The orchard size must be a minimum of 0.05ha, with a minimum width of 15 meters wide.
• A minimum of 12 trees must be planted, ranging from the full (M111), half (M106) and semi dwarfing (M26) varieties of rootstocks.
• Boundary of the orchard must be stock-proof for the duration of contract period.
• Only varieties included in the Native Irish Collection may be planted. If possible, varieties traditionally grown in the area should be chosen from the list.
• At least three approved varieties must be planted, with no variety comprising more that half the trees planted.
• Trees must be planted during the dormant season.
• The orchard may be mown or grazed by sheep.
• Inorganic/organic fertilizers or lime may not be broadcast throughout the orchard. However, well rotted farmyard manure and a small quantity of chemical fertilizer and lime may be applied, each year after planting if the soil is poor.
• The Irish Seed Savers Association will give you advice free of charge on trees suitable for your area, on planting and arrange delivery of the trees to your farm.
• The Irish Seed Savers Association can sell you the trees at €35.00 for the 2 year olds or €22.00 for this years maiden whips.  Payable with your order.  There is 10% discount for Seed Savers members.
• Failed trees must be replaced.
• None of this information can be taken as a contract you must check with your REPS 4 Teagasc advisor before planting.
• This REPS 4 payment is €300.00 annually and forms part of your REPS payment.

Planting an orchard is one of the best ways you can halt the loss of biodiversity and if you want to eat pure healthy fruit for you and for generations to come!  Home grown fruit is considerably less expensive than fruit purchased, considering a lot of organic and conventional apples are imported from as far as New Zealand during a time when the fruit is in season here in Ireland.  Visit ISSA orchards to see over 200 distinct varieties these beautiful native Irish apple trees growing organically in East Clare.

For a free Apple catalogue and information on REPS Native Irish Orchards please phone 061 921866 or Email info@irishseedsavers.ie. Visit our Website www.irishseedsavers.ie

Opening Hours:

Monday- Friday 9.30-5pm (Closed Bank Holidays), Saturdays/Sundays 12.30-5pm.  We are located 42kms east of Ennis on R352, 5kms west of Scariff on R 461 (Scariff -Feakle Rd) from Galway take the R461 (Ennis road) past Gort and we are located 6kms from Feakle.

None of the early varieties keep very well so it’s hard to purchase early apples except for the English variety Discovery. If you want to try them you need to plant a tree or know someone who has a tree and is good enough to let you at their goodies.

The Irish Peach or Early Crofton is the first of the Irish varieties to ripen in late July early August. Probably one of the oldest recorded varieties in Ireland it is one of four Crofton varieties dating back to the time of Elizabeth 1 (late 1500s/early 1600s) from Longford House in Co Sligo. Mentioned in a survey of Co Antrim in 1812 it was sent to the R.H.S. in England by John Robertson of Kilkenny in 1820 and was planted extensively in the U.K. becoming a popular Victorian and Edwardian variety. Dr Lamb in 1950 described it as “the most delicious fruit of it’s season, but like all early varieties it should be fully ripened on the tree and eaten soon after gathering”. The fruit is small to medium, round and slightly flattened. It has smooth skin that is pale yellow with a brownish red flush, slight stripes of darker carmine and slight greyish russet specks. The flesh is greenish white, quite firm, crisp and juicy with a good aromatic flavour. The flowers are large with the cupped petals being pink tinged and red on their reverse side. The trees growth is moderately vigorous and being a tip bearer needs very little pruning (just removing in winter branches that cross or close up the centre of the tree), older trees have a very drooping habit owing to the weight of the fruit. Unfortunately it’s greatest weakness is its susceptibility to scab.

The Kerry Pippin was first recorded in a statistical survey of Co Kilkenny in 1802. Picked in Late August and keeping until October it is a second early apple, much grown in Ireland in the 1800s it was still well known and grown in the 1940s-50s. The fruit is small to medium in size and is crisp and crunchy, the flesh being white/yellow turning to golden yellow and having an aromatic or spicy tang. The tree is of moderate vigour, fairly upright and produces spurs freely being a regular bearer. Usually a healthy variety but slight scab has been observed. It has been described as being coloured like a tortoise-shell butterfly.

The Widows Friend is a small round orange/yellow apple from Co Armagh. This fruit is the apple that once tried by children will have them stripping the fruit from the tree every year! Although it has been described as having no particular flavour, I thought that it was very fruity with a definite strawberry flavour. The flesh is white, crisp, sweet and very juicy. It ripens towards the end of August beginning of September and is a heavy bearer. Dr Lamb in the late 1940s reported seeing a tree laden with fruit and was told that it was a heavy and regular bearer. The tree is moderately vigorous and makes a round-headed tree with drooping branches. The flowers are medium sized, white tinged with pink.

Dr Lamb found Summer John growing in a few old orchards in Co Fermanagh in the late 1940s.It was already on its way to extinction then and one old tree that he saw was five feet in circumference at twenty eight inches from the ground. The trees at Seed Savers came from scions sent from Brogdale and their trees came from scions sent by Dr Lamb in 1948. The fruit is large, flattened and angular and the skin is dull green with a little russet veining. The flesh being fine, sweet, firm and juicy is ready for picking in mid September, possibly keeping until November. It has also been recorded as being used for cider.

Cavan Honeycomb is ready for picking in September/October. This variety was found in Beturbet, Co Cavan and in Carrick on Shannon, Co Leitrim. The nurse-rooted tree in the collection fruited for the first time at Seed Savers IN 2002 and produced a small to medium golden yellow fruit with a strong aroma. The flesh was soft and juicy with a rich sweet/acid cider flavour.

Several early cooking varieties in the collection are Custard Scarlet (Co Clare) and Leitrim Early Red with the dual purpose self rooter Mrs Perry (Donegal) being big enough to cook in early September and ripening for eating in early October.

Apples were saved for the last night in January, St Brigid’s Eve, and a griddle apple cake was part of the feast that followed the making of the Brigid’s crosses.

Apple dumplings were served on Halloween, and on that night apple peelings thrown over the shoulder could divine the initials of the person one was likely to marry. In County Down apples were hung from the roof on Halloween.

Apple fritters are served on Shrove Tuesday.

On St John’s Eve, the Celtic festival of midsummer at June 24th, fires are lit in orchards or near fruit trees.

Happy as Larry (Labhraidh) refers to Laurence, ‘the spirit of indolence’ in the orchard, who persuades the apple-pullers to rest and not harvest the fruit.

Peadar MacNeice (RIP), founding director of the Armagh Orchards Trust, tells of seeing a hedgehog carrying an apple on its spines, and a squirrel rolling an apple along the tree branch with two paws, to its nest!

Apple gifting is a remnant of a Druidic custom of giving apples from October to December as a sign of friendship, good health and good luck. These apples, symbolic of sweetness, fertility and immortality were decorated with raisins, hazelnuts, and wheat grains. The apples were put on three sticks and decorated on top with sprigs of thyme, yew and variegated holly.

Again in the spirit of generosity (or lack of it) sayings such as ‘to give an apple where there is an orchard’ and ‘better give an apple than eat it’ were once common.

Extracts from The Irish Apple: History and Myth, available from the Irish Seed Savers Association at €5 to members.

Codling An immature or green apple. The codling moth attacks apples when they are immature. Probably also used for apples that were green when used. CRAB. From the Norse word for crab apple – scrab. 1420

Gilliflower Given to apples that smell or taste like gilliflower, a garden plant of the genus dianthus that smells like cloves. Pronounced ‘jilly’ flower.

Greening Green skinned

Jeniting Early apple, from the French ‘Pomme de jeanet’ ripening about June 24th – St. Jeanne’s Day. 160l

Noble Having excellent characteristics, as in ‘better than the rest’.

Nonpareil From the French, meaning ‘without an equal’.

Nonesuch Also meaning without an equal. None other like it.

Pearmain From the French ‘Parmanus’ meaning from Parma (Northern Italy) 1597

Pippin A seedling apple. From the old French ‘pepin’ meaning seed.

Reinette or Rennet or Renneting From the French Reine, Queen, given to a large group of French dessert apples, high flavoured but not sweet, small, flat, hard, and good keeping. 1568

Russet The word means red, but it refers to the texture of the apples since it comes from ‘russet coat’ the dull red/brown wool coats of peasants. Rusty Coat probably has the same origin.

These materials may be purchased. They are natural products and therefore readily assimiable by the plants.

Free fertilisers

These materials are available free. Proportions vary with source.

N= Nitrogen P=Phosphorus K=Potash

Liquid manures

Teas are made by either filling a container with the leaves or suspending a sack of manure in it. Then filling the container with water. Leave for about a week. Use it as a liquid fertiliser or foliar feed. Good on tomatoes, courgettes or house plants.

Whilst not strictly fertilisers these supply essential calcium.

Lime – Do not apply with manure. Leaches out of soil.

Calcified seaweed – Can be applied with manures. Granular form means it is not leached out & maintains ph level over long period. Rich in minerals that promote micro-organisms.

All the above are good used in the compost

Get hold of some poor tubers, either those which have started to sprout in the bag, or left overs that were too small to plant. Cut these up into pieces and put on metal skewers then push them into the ground to a depth of about two inches. The Wireworms will go for them and when they are full lift them out and plunge into a pan or pot of boiling water.

(Description from the book: The pocket garden troubles expert, Dr.D.G. Hessayon), Wireworm - Hard and shiny underground pests are a problem in new gardens and in plots next to grassland. They are slow moving, not like the centipedes. Wireworms eat the roots of most plants and may burrow up the stems of Chrysanthemum and lettuce.

Good soil preparation and regular cultivation are the only answer and long and labour intensive solutions.

(Information from the book: Diseases of crops and their remedies, Dr.A.B. Griffiths)The Click Beetles (Elater sputator, Elater obscurus, Elater sanguineus, Elater lineatus) belong to the Elateridae, and ‘may readily be known by the hinder angles of the thorax being pointed, and also by their power of jumping up, with a slight clicking noise, when laid on the back. Most of the species are black, or bronzed, or partly black and partly yellow. E.sanguineus is a bright-scarlet insect, with a black head and thorax. The beatles are commonly met with on flowers, etc., in the daytime; and their larvae are too well-known everywhere, as WIREWORMS, being long and slender, with tough skins, and feeding on the roots of plants.

Wireworm has a three to five year cycle, according to the supply of food. A scarcity of food means a prolonged existence in the larval stage. In the winter the larvae go deeper in the soil, to avoid the severity of frosts. At the expiration of the larval period, the wireworms again go deeper in the soil, surround themselves in earth-cells, and there change to pupae. The pupae either hibernate until the following spring, or appear as perfect insects in from August ‘the eggs from which these grubs are hatched are laid either in the earth close to the root of a plant, or between the sheathing leaves near the base of the stem. Once upon a time you could buy ‘Draza’, a product which has now been recalled for various reasons.

Prevention: Good cultivation and liberal manuring produce strong and vigourous plants, which may yield, in spite of the land containing wireworms.

Burn all rubbish on which the wireworms may possibly feed.

Cure: Green manuring wiht buckwheat or white mustard, destroys the wireworms as well as the mustard beetle.